Backpackers Mt Augustus
| |
The
Pilbara Western Australia |
|
Mount Augustus National
Park
WORLD'S
BIGGEST ROCK
Mount Augustus,
or Burringurrah as it is known by the local Wadjari Aboriginal people, is about
850 kilometres from Perth and midway between the Great Northern and North West
Coastal highways. One of the most spectacular solitary peaks in the world, it
rises 717 metres above a stony, red sandplain of arid shrubland—dominated by
wattles, cassias and eremophilas—and is clearly visible from the air for more
than 160 kilometres.
The rock itself, which culminates
in a small peak on a plateau, is about eight kilometres long and covers an area
of 4,795 hectares. At about twice the size of Uluru [Ayers Rock] it is the biggest
'rock' in the world.
The Geology
The rocks of Mount Augustus are from
the upper Proterozoic age; they were deposited on an ancient sea floor as sand
and boulders some 1,000 million years ago. These deposits consolidated to form
sandstone and conglomerate strata, which eventually, with movement in the Earth's
crust, folded and uplifted. Sandstone and conglomerate cover a wide area, including
Mt Phillip, 35 kilometres to the west-south-west. The granite rock that lies beneath
Mount Augustus is 1,650 million years old. Making it not only twice the size of
Uluru, but considerably older.
Plants and Animals
Drainage lines from the rock seep beneath
the surrounding sands to feed groves of white-barked river gums. Elsewhere mulga,
myall, gidgee and other wattles are dispersed across the red sandplain. Here honeyeaters,
babblers and galahs forage for food. Nearby emus seek fruits, and bustards snatch
insects and small reptiles from the ground. Bungarras (goannas) and red kangaroos
are common on the plain, while euros and birds of prey are found closer to the
rock. At Cattle Pool on the Lyons River, a tributary of the Gascoyne, permanent
pools attract waterbirds such as black cormorants, swans and ducks. In the trees
are corellas and blue-winged kookaburras.
Aboriginal History
Historically, the Aboriginal people
who inhabited the area around Mount Augustus were known as the Wadjari. In times
of plenty, the Wadjari people would roam over a wide area of the Gascoyne. In
times of drought, however, the Wadjari would return to areas where water was available,
such as the natural springs along the base of Mount Augustus. Aboriginal occupation
is evident by the engravings on rock walls at Mundee, Ooramboo and Beedoboondu
visitor sites, and by numerous stone tools discovered in these areas.
There are at least three Dreaming
stories for Mount Augustus. Although each differs slightly in detail, the basic
thread of the story remains the same. Probably the best-known story is one about
a boy called Burringurrah, who was undergoing his initiation into manhood.
'The rigours of initiation so distressed
Burringurrah that he ran away. In doing so, he transgressed the Aboriginal tribal
law and under the law he had to be punished. Tribesmen pursued the boy, finally
catching up with him and spearing him in the upper right leg [spearing still
remains the main form of punishment under tribal law]. Burringurrah fell to
the ground; the spear head broke from its shaft and protruded from his leg.
The boy tried to crawl away, but the women beat him with their mulgurrahs [fighting
sticks]. Burringurrah collapsed and died, lying on his belly with his left leg
bent up beside his body.'
As you look at Mount Augustus you
can see the shape of a body, with the stump of the spear in the leg. The geological
fracture lines at the western end of the mount indicate the wounds inflicted
by the mulgurrah. The spear stump is the small peak called Edney's Lookout,
at the eastern end of the mount.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
- Burringurrah Drive. A
49-km circuit providing views of the changing faces of the rock and access
to all feature sites. Suitable for conventional two-wheel-drive vehicles,
it features rocky creek gorges, caves, Aboriginal rock engravings (petroglyphs),
picnic sites, walktrails and a variety of wildlife on the rock, plain and
water courses.
- Emu Hill Lookout.Turn
off north approximately 5 kilometres west of the park boundary on the Cobra
Station road, and drive 1.5 kilometres along a track suitable for two-wheel
drive vehicles. The lookout is a good location from which to take photographs
of the Mount; at sunset it is usually most colourful.
- Goolinee (Cattle Pool).A
permanent pool on the Lyons River. A day-use area only. Particularly picturesque
after rains have filled the pool to capacity. But please be careful, reeds
in the pool can make swimming hazardous.
- Corella Trail - 2
km return (1 hour).
Trail begins mid-way along the pool. A short, easy stroll. Quiet observant
walkers are rewarded with tranquil scenes of waterbirds. Corellas and
other species forage in the river gums.
- Goordgeela. This is a
small recreation spot at the base of the rock. A trail runs to a cave from
which there are good views of the Lyons River meandering through the sandplain
and the Godfrey Ranges to the north.
- Cave Hill Trail -
4 km return (2 hours).
A short, steep trail that runs up from Goordgeela to the cave entrance.
Do not enter the cave as its ceiling is unstable and rock falls do occur
from time to time.
- The Pound. Earlier this
century this natural basin was used for holding cattle prior to moving them
on the hoof to Meekatharra.
Droving to Meekatharra would take 10 to 12 days.
- Saddle Trail - 2 km
return (1 hour).
This short walk to the saddle provides views south into The Pound and
north over the Lyons River valley.
- Beedoboondu (Flintstone).A
short walk along the creek bed of approximately 250 metres will bring you
to Flintstone Rock—a huge flat rock that lies across the stream bed. Crawl
under Flintstone Rock to observe Aboriginal engravings. After heavy rain,
water cascades over the rocks forming several waterfalls.
- Summit Trail - 12
km return (6 hours).
This walk to the top of the mount is only for fit and experienced bushwalkers.
From the summit there are extensive views over the surrounding plain and
drainage basin to distant ranges. An early start is recommended, and please
advise someone of your plans. Seek advice from the ranger or the Mount
Augustus Outback Tourist Resort. Wear sturdy footwear and protective clothing
and carry at least two litres of water per person.
- Mundee Mundee is reached
along a short trail. It is a rock wall with engravings of kangaroo, emu and
bustard tracks in three cave-like overhangs. Aboriginal mythology has it that
in the beginning, when the rocks were still soft, a Dreaming spirit did these
engravings with his fingers.
- Petroglyph Trail -
an easy 300 metres return walk to the rock wall.
- Ooramboo A short, easy
stroll of approximately 150 metres to view Aboriginal engravings of animal
tracks along an escarpment. A 100 metres farther along is 'Edney Spring',
a permanent soak.
- Edney's Trail - 6 km return
(2.5 hours).
A well-defined trail will lead you to Edney's Lookout (the peak that is
clearly seen from the Tourist Resort; it is at the south-east of the mount).
Trail suitable for those seeking elevated views but who do not wish to
tackle the more strenuous Summit Trail.
- Warrarla (Gum Grove) A
pleasant picnic site set among a grove of large river gums.
- Kotke Gorge Trail
- 2 km return (1 hour).
This trail is a ramble and rock hop along the usually dry creek bed. There
you can discover the variety of rock shapes, textures and exposed in the
creek bed. There is no marked trail up Kotke Gorge.
Access:
Mount Augustus is 490 kilometres from Carnarvon via Gascoyne Junction and 360
kilometres from Meekatharra. Roads are gravel, but suitable for conventional
vehicles most of the year.However, roads may be closed or substantially damaged
after heavy rain. Seek advice from the local Shires. Carry ample fuel, water
and supplies to cope with all possible occurrences.
Accommodation and Camping:
No camping or open fires are permitted within the National Park or on Mount
Augustus Station pastoral lease. Accommodation, powered caravan sites, camping
facilities, meals, fuel and water are available at Mount Augustus Outback Tourist
Resort, phone (08) 9943 0527 and Cobra Station, (08) 9943 0565.